Dumb questions about wood case construction

Posted: 4/2/2005 9:41:49 PM

From: COWafornia

Joined: 3/23/2005

OK so I have a theremax kit with the theremax case kit.

I have some questions about the CASE. Putting the electronics together looks as if I can understand and manage to do that. I have put stuff together that I designed from scratch so that were about as complex. It is the case instructions I find illogical. I am hoping someone with wood experience can help me a bit. I am not a wood working type person. I generally use metal or plastic cases and just screw everything together.

1: You are to glue the case together before you apply finish?
Why can’t I apply finish to everything first and then glue it together? (Is it because the glue would not stick)

2: After the case to all together you then mount the front panel to the inside of the case.
This would seem to be somewhat hard to do.

If I applied finish to all the parts THEN did the electronics THEN mounted the front panel THEN screwed / glued everything together it seems it would be easier to do it this way. There has to be a reason for putting it together the other way. Any idea why?

Oh what do you thing about just using mineral oil for a finish? The only TUNG oil I could find is from MINWAX and it states it is toxic. ]:8|X

Thanks in advance.
Posted: 4/7/2005 1:07:20 PM

From: COWafornia

Joined: 3/23/2005

Here is what PAiA said...
It is OK to change the order of some things or modify them to make it easier
for you.

The parts are glued before they're screwed together so the joints are

This happens before finishing because a sander, or block and sandpaper, can
be taken to the edges for a nice smooth edge.

A good way to handle the panel fastening to the case inside, is to center it
in the opening and mark the holes and then drill pilot holes before the
assembly, or, just poke them in with an awl. The screws then go in fairly easily
with a small screwdriver from the inside.

Tung oil is only toxic when it's wet from the can and making fumes. After it
dries, there isn't anything to be worried about--at least not that I know.
I'm more into the electronic's end of things. The one I built was put into a
red plastic pencil box.

Thanks and I hope this helps.

Sincerely, Scott Lee
Posted: 5/2/2005 12:50:29 PM

Joined: 2/21/2005

I built my own cabinet using red oak from a home-hardware shop, but used construction techniques similar to what has been described.
Once I was satisfied with the shape and fit of the pieces I glued them together, being very careful not to smear glue on outer, non-joining surfaces; very important to do this. the cabinet was clamped in a vise, an extra bead of glue run down each of the interior seams, and the whole thing was left to dry overnight.
The next day the cabinet was finish-sanded on the outside, removing any trace of glue from the outer surfaces. Clamping the cabinet kept all seams tight and no fastening devices were necessary. I then rubbed walnut stain into the wood with a cloth, allowing as much penetration as possible. This popped the grain out in sharp detail, without changing too much the native color of the wood. Again the cabinet was allowed to dry overnight.
On the third day I applied Varathane(tm) Gloss finish to the cabinet. I applied multiple coats, taking care not to cause runs. Again I allowed one day for drying.
Finally I buffed the cabinet surface to season and polish the final coat. That's it. The instrument is now four years old, still looks great, and hasn't sprung apart.

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