Moog Etherwave restoration

I picked up a Moog Etherwave from eBay and have been working on bringing it back to life.  It was missing the pitch antenna, so I made one out of the 3/8" flexible copper tubing, but I've run into circuit problems, it seems like there's a hard to find short somewhere.

The PCB shows revision 11-211C and was wondering if anyone had a schematic for this revision?

I've replaced the +/- voltage regulators since they burned out from my initial troubleshooting.  I've been poking around with a thermal camera today and found R16 and R6 to get warm at power on (along with the voltage regulators of course)

I'll leave it at that for now, thanks for reading and hopefully I can score a schematic (or some other ideas to try)

Hi nakamin,

If it's any help, Roger Hess annotated the 11-211J schematic: https://d-lev.com/research/Updated_Annotated-Etherwave-Schematic.pdf

And here's the Big Briar "Hot-Rodding" manual, which contains an earlier schematic: https://d-lev.com/research/BigBriar-Etherwave-Service-Manual.pdf

It looks like R2, R6, and R16 were changed from 2.2k to 1.6k?  Almost 1/10 of a Watt dissipated by each, no wonder they're warm!

The power supply rectifiers were beefed up too for much higher reverse breakdown voltage (good move).

Good luck!

Hi nakamin,If it's any help, Roger Hess annotated the 11-211J schematic: https://d-lev.com/research/Updated_Annotated-Etherwave-Schematic.pdfAnd here's the Big Briar "Hot-Rodding" manual, which contains an earlier schematic: https://d-lev.com/research/BigBriar-Etherwave-Service-Manual.pdfIt looks like R2, R6, and R16 were changed from 2.2k to 1.6k?  Almost 1/10 of a Watt dissipated by each, no wonder they're warm!The power supply rectifiers were beefed up too for much higher reverse breakdown voltage (good move).Good luck!

Thank you dewster!  The first annotated 11-211J schematic is much closer to what I'm seeing on the 11-211C, should be very helpful.  I'll post an update once I figure out what's wrong

I guess I was being a bit more paranoid than necessary, after checking voltages at the warm resistors I found them to be -0.6v at R6 and R2 like they should, but R16 was much lower than +0.2v, but would move when I tried tuning L11.  Long story short, I ended up cracking the ferrite in L11 (I couldn't find my insulated tuning tool so I was using a small hex bit, oops), but I did plug the output into my mixer and did get signal.  I think I read somewhere that those inductors are hard or impossible to find, hopefully I can track something down that will work as a replacement and read more up on the tuning process.

I was able to replace the cracked SLOT TEN-5-10 inductor with this: https://www.questcomp.com/part/4/f292cns-t1060z/183014319 (F292CNS-T1060Z)

Even though the footprint isn't right (it's smaller) the pin out is the same and I was able to use needle nose pliers to bend the leads to be soldered into place.  I just tested the new inductor and everything seems to be working (edit: removed part about the inductor having a plastic cap, that is incorrect, it's just much sturdier, but still just a solid ferrite core)

I ended up buying 25 of these so I could make Quest Component's minimum order, so if anyone is interested in trying these we can try and work something out in DM so you don't have to buy the rest of Quest's stock (...unless you really want to!)