Dewster, I am glad to have been of help - and thank you for the acknowledgment. The most frustrating aspect of my life is lonelyness - Having someone to share ideas with (be these crazy or brilliant) who can understand what I am talking about, and having someone with ideas they share with me - well, its probably the most important interaction I get.. So thank you!
Touchless -
Thank you for your comments on thermal stability - it is really interesting to hear your observations.. The " I walk around every hour or more and readjust each one." is a really useful reference. (and actually fits my expierience with my H1 theremins - they needed re-tuning a few times each day - they were not designed to a high standard regarding drift, and its surprising they were as good as they were.. I expect that with the temperature change of 25C you are subjecting your theremins to, they would have needed re-tuning within an hour) I suppose that a few hours of operation without re-tuning is probably acceptable in most situations -
I had wondered if I was being pedantic in my efforts to avoid thermal drift - as an engineer, drift (to me) is a sign of incompetent design.. LOL ;-) .... However, the truth is that sometimes increasing the cost of an instrument just to produce a good specification, is perhaps more "incompetent" - particularly if this "improvement" doesnt confer any actual benefit.
My method of obtaining thermal (on real theremins I an developing, not low - end stuff like the H1) stability is perhaps massive overkill - A quite inellegant "sledge hammer" approach.. I encase temperature sensitive components in polyurithane foam casting, and have a temperature sensor and heater (resistors) in close proximity to these components, thermally coupled to them... An "oven" circuit heats the assembly to above the maximum temperature they would ever attain due to the environment (I usually set this to 50C), and keeps the assembly regulated within 1 degree of this temperature - once the temperature is attained (a few minutes) there is no source of drift - except external factors such as expansion of the antenna, which is extremely minor*. (The main reason for the thermal insulation is to reduce the power consumed by the heater)
But the question I have is whether the extra expense and difficulty is worth it - Also, once assembled and potted, repair or modification to these components is difficult or impossible.. If all theremins other than the RCA require adjustment hourly, then perhaps a drift time of an hour or a bit more is acceptable.. It may well be that the reason the RCA is so stable is because it is running hot and virtually self-regulating its temperature... That, and the fact that there are no ferrites.
I have recently been playing with simply wrapping the inductors and temperature sensitive components in thermal insulator, and not having a heater - performance is no where near as good as implementing an oven, but it is far better than just having these components open, and FAR cheaper and easier.
" Whether a theremin is huge or tiny they still require the same floor space."
Yes, this has been the case - The solution IMO is directional antennas - if the antenna is completely insensitive to the field behind it, one halves the required "clear" area - if one focusses the forward field, one can reduce the required area even further. The "decoupled" topology allows this to be done quite easily.. I had been playing with active shielding of antennas, but with the "decoupled" topology one can use passive shielding, and compensate for the loss of sensitivity by increasing the gain of the sensor circuitry - something you cannot do with the old topology.
Fred.
*There are some external components which are a headache - tuning controls for example - these cannot be encased, and need to be compensated by other more complex means - variable capacitors and potentiometers are the worst - and adjustable inductors need to be in the oven with access to their slug as they are a major cause of drift - its the damn ferrite inductors, fixed or adjustable, which are the biggest pain.
This is what I like about voltage control - one can generate a temperature dependant correction voltage to compensate for variation in the voltage from a tuning control (potentiometer) - and you can adjust this compensation manually under controlled conditions - no need to mess about adding NTC capacitors or whatever.
But how far does one go ???