kidelectric wrote:
'Yes, this is exactly what I'm looking to do. Could you share what you did? It does seem a bit cryptic for how to get it to work as a CV-MIDI converter, though the PAiA website specifically says it can be done (just not how)
Would you recommend switching from Velocity Gate to Volume Gate as outlined on the PAiA site?
http://www.paia.com/ProdArticles/therefaq.htm#drift
I think I am going to do what you had done and have some SPDT switches for mixing and matching mods. I'm thinking: one for the velocity/volume gate; one for the 10k resistor for coupling the pitch and getting a more saw-wave RCA tone; and then one of the kkissinger ones he had mentioned.
I also plan on removing the .005 disc as suggested by PAiA for more dramatic square timbre (if I change the timbre, I really want it to change noticeably, not tiny amounts)
Finally, I will probably do the kkissinger mod mentioned about for getting out the pitch lag (which will be important if I use the MIDI fader)'
The Paia Midi-fader board should be installed as far away as possible from the T-max board in the same case. The Midi-fader board should not be mounted between the volume and pitch antennae inside the case. The Midi-fader board should not mounted above the T-max board.All these scenarios can cause theremin tunability issues even tho the T-max is pretty forgiving in this respect. I guess my advice would be to consider your case size and configuration carefully.
Yes, I would recommend the Vol/Velocity Switch Mod. I have it installed on my T-max. Also, I would highly recommend the Pitch Preview Mod, as well. Radio Shack ,(perhaps), still sells a mini- amplifier that runs on 9 Volts. It has an earphone jack. I made the necessary circuit board mods for the T-max Pitch Preview, took the electronics out of the mini-amp, cut off it's speaker and threw the case away. I then made the proper connections from the T-max to the mini-amp board, affixed the mini-amp board to the inside of my T-max cabinet, connected it to the common power feed and installed the mini-amp's earphone jack to the There Max front panel.
Of course PAiA sells a kit to do the same thing.
The matter of the Midi-Fader,(henceforth MF), is a little complicated to sort out as to the settings on the MF circuit board's S1 and the eight J5 CV inputs. Also, when experimenting on or using the MF with a MIDI capable keyboard connected, a key will have to be depressed and remained depressed, (weighted or wedged down). The MF does not send note-on MIDI information. The MF will send alot of other MIDI messages,( I personally was only concerned with pitch bend and volume change messages). Also the sound or patch selected on the MIDI keyboard has to be set to be shaped by those MIDI messages. Those are a lot of variables to overcome to get the MF to do what we would like: control pitch and volume like a Theremin!
Kidelectric, I will post more later after I review MF notes again.
teslatheremin
'Yes, this is exactly what I'm looking to do. Could you share what you did? It does seem a bit cryptic for how to get it to work as a CV-MIDI converter, though the PAiA website specifically says it can be done (just not how)
Would you recommend switching from Velocity Gate to Volume Gate as outlined on the PAiA site?
http://www.paia.com/ProdArticles/therefaq.htm#drift
I think I am going to do what you had done and have some SPDT switches for mixing and matching mods. I'm thinking: one for the velocity/volume gate; one for the 10k resistor for coupling the pitch and getting a more saw-wave RCA tone; and then one of the kkissinger ones he had mentioned.
I also plan on removing the .005 disc as suggested by PAiA for more dramatic square timbre (if I change the timbre, I really want it to change noticeably, not tiny amounts)
Finally, I will probably do the kkissinger mod mentioned about for getting out the pitch lag (which will be important if I use the MIDI fader)'
The Paia Midi-fader board should be installed as far away as possible from the T-max board in the same case. The Midi-fader board should not be mounted between the volume and pitch antennae inside the case. The Midi-fader board should not mounted above the T-max board.All these scenarios can cause theremin tunability issues even tho the T-max is pretty forgiving in this respect. I guess my advice would be to consider your case size and configuration carefully.
Yes, I would recommend the Vol/Velocity Switch Mod. I have it installed on my T-max. Also, I would highly recommend the Pitch Preview Mod, as well. Radio Shack ,(perhaps), still sells a mini- amplifier that runs on 9 Volts. It has an earphone jack. I made the necessary circuit board mods for the T-max Pitch Preview, took the electronics out of the mini-amp, cut off it's speaker and threw the case away. I then made the proper connections from the T-max to the mini-amp board, affixed the mini-amp board to the inside of my T-max cabinet, connected it to the common power feed and installed the mini-amp's earphone jack to the There Max front panel.
Of course PAiA sells a kit to do the same thing.
The matter of the Midi-Fader,(henceforth MF), is a little complicated to sort out as to the settings on the MF circuit board's S1 and the eight J5 CV inputs. Also, when experimenting on or using the MF with a MIDI capable keyboard connected, a key will have to be depressed and remained depressed, (weighted or wedged down). The MF does not send note-on MIDI information. The MF will send alot of other MIDI messages,( I personally was only concerned with pitch bend and volume change messages). Also the sound or patch selected on the MIDI keyboard has to be set to be shaped by those MIDI messages. Those are a lot of variables to overcome to get the MF to do what we would like: control pitch and volume like a Theremin!
Kidelectric, I will post more later after I review MF notes again.
teslatheremin
