". If anyone can confirm this, that would be great."
I posted the following somewhere on TW, but cannot find it - So sorry for this "double" posting - When I find the link I will insert it.
When it comes to equalizing coils, high Q and low capacitance are, IMO, the fundamental requirements.. These can be achieved with big air coils, but equally can be achieved with smaller series connected coils on ferrite formers.
For those who dont understand this, I will explain:
It is the 'trick' of connecting coils in series which is where one gets the best of all worlds - the capacitances of these coils is reduced for the total capacitance of the final composite inductor - For example, the Miller (Bourns) 6304-RC coils (which I mainly use) are 5mH 5pF each.. Connect 8 of these in series and one has 40mH (series inductances add together), but the capacitance becomes 1/((1/C)*N) = 1/((1/5pF)*8) = 1/(0.2*8) = 1/1.6 = 0.625pF ... You will have difficulty winding a coil which gives 40mH with capacitance of 0.625pF!
Using 10mH coils, each with 8pF, one gets (for 4 coils) 40mH with 2pF - this is ok, not as good as using 8 5mH coils, but ok (and 1/2 the price of using 8 inductors).
Using one 40mH coil on a single ferrite former, one gets a lousy equalising coil, because capacitance is usually much higher.
Fred.
(in fact, the Miller / Bourns 630x inductors partly achieve their low capacitance by being wound as 3 seperate coils on a common former - using the same 'trick' I have described above)
"and you can't mount them on a breadboard since its copper dots or stripes would add too much capacitance and thus lowering the SRF"
You can mount them on breadboard - but keep the leads long and raise the inductors well above the board.. Its not as good as you will get from a PCB (capacitance is likely to be a bit higher) but it is good enough.
But why mount the inductors on the board? solder them end to end and place them in a plastic tube - connect one end directly onto the antenna mounting tag with a really short connection between the antenna and inductor, and run a thin wire from the other end to the PCB.. Keep the inductor tube away from any metalwork or board etc (use plastic clips or whatever to hold it in position).
It is far better to have any connection wire on the "cold" end (the connection to the oscillator, which is not extremely sensitive to capacitance changes) than on the "hot" end (the end of the last inductor, which is highly sensitive and is the antenna) - you want as little "antenna" inside your theremin as possible.