"Is that a knob and a digital tuner, or one or the other depending on the individual instrument? Does this setup account for users with different hand geometry and people who want to tune to different intervals? I've found that tuning to null is the first step to get you in the ballpark, then I have to fine tune to get a nice perfect fourth from my position one to position four in every playable register. Also some people tune so the zero-beat range is very far behind them." - Jo
None of the above really apply to my scheme -
Because tuning is performed on the antenna (by electronically adjusting the equalizing inductance) the "null point" is actually tuned not to "null" but to a state where the VFO is pulled to a frequency above the antenna circuit resonance by a fixed amount, and the reference frequency is 8Hz above this.. Which gives a difference frequency of 8Hz.
When the difference frequency is lower than 8Hz, the theremin is automatically muted, it is also muted when the reference frequency is lower than the VFO frequency (wrong-side-of-null) - there is a bi-color LED which is green when difference frequency >= 8Hz, and red at all other times (when the theremin is muted)
Because the antenna circuit is always tuned for optimum linearity (regardless of background capacitances etc) and because the relationship between the free-running VFO <-> Antenna resonance <-> Reference frequency are always the same at whatever null distance the user selects (within reason - set the null point at < 40cm and the non-linearity will become bothersome - 60cm is my standard ideal distance). Due to the above, the player never needs to bother about 'hand optimising' the performance - the tuning knob is adjusted so that the tuning LED switches to red at the null distance.
There is another control I have not mentioned, because I am not sure if I would fit it - but this is a 'range' control which defines the number of octaves covered in the playing field.. 6 octaves is probably the optimum setting, this gives about 5 linear octaves over the playing field, with these octaves covering 50cm of the 60cm field - about 5cm are 'wasted' on the inaudible lowest octave, and 5cm wasted closest to the antenna.
The above is fine for a single register theremin, IMO - But for a switched register theremin (which was/is my target) better performance is, IMO, obtained by reducing the number of linear octaves to 3 or 4 - this gives larger distance available for each octave (about 12cm per octave, or 1cm / note for 4 octaves, and about 16cm/octave 1.2cm/note for the 3 octave tuned version).. Register switching alows 8 octaves to be covered with 6 register selections, or 9 octaves if the 4 octave tuning is employed.
Not really sure what you mean by "people who want to tune to different intervals" - Over the linear zone (about 50cm in a 60cm field) the intervals are evenly spaced.
But I have said far too much - I am not in a position to provide the above theremin, and not even in a position to demonstrate it yet - It is in a box in my lab, with loads of other prototypes.. My lab has been piled with assorted junk by my wife, making it impossible for me to access anything or work there.. I am looking for a new home with enough space for me to continue my R+D while my divorce goes through - but I have no money...... So, all I can do is talk about what I have done - and I have done this for about 5 years with little to show for all this hot air! LOL!
Fred.