That's great news. This is what I was hoping for. I don't know what variations there are between early and late, kit and factory models, but I was hoping to replicate the version with the musical staff/zigzag/vacuum tube logo. I have a decent photo of the front panel of this model to enable reconstruction of the graphics.
I think the coils and knobs are covered. Although fairly similar coil forms are available from SurplusSales (info thanks to Fat Bob, I think), it would be easier for me to match the original design using phenolic tubes with machined end caps and formed triangular solder lugs crimped onto the phenolic tubes. I even have some tan #36 cotton covered wire that has been around since the 70s for the coils. The coils can be honeycomb-wound as the originals were, and it looks neater than the scramble-winding approach of the magazine version.
Ebay had some vintage Davies bakelite knobs of the correct scalloped design (assuming the diameter is 1.75, I hope I hope), although they are black. I have already made a silicone mold to recast them in brown urethane, which should look for all purposes identical to brown bakelite. Although I do think black looks a little better, and there was at least one example out there that did have black knobs with the brown panel, but hopefully you can advise me on this. It is possible that they could have been replacements. After buying the "vintage" knobs for a collectable price on eBay (and finding 1/4 of them broken in the bag they arrived in), I learned that the exact same knobs are still sold by Davies plastics for less than the eBay price.
Most of the remaining parts (including the Johnson 5M11 variable capacitors, Mallory 3123J power switch, and striped hookup wire! ) are all gathering dust in a box waiting for some time this winter. The only missing parts are what appear to be unusual pin or banana jacks and plugs that are used for the antenna connections into the metal housing. Can you tell me what these are?
So yes, I could use the following bits of information for starters if you are willing:
1) External cabinet dimensions and the wood thicknesses (guessing 1/2", except 3/4" for the ends?)
2) The metal chassis width. It looks like the height and depths match the case.
3) Chassis metal thickness (guessing about .050" or so). Looks like tin-plated steel? I can't see the sides that extend into the front panel, but it looks like they may be flanged outward so they can screw to the front panel. A photo of the backside of the front panel would be very useful - this is one thing missing from my photo collection. Also, are the rear corners of your metal chassis simply meeting with a gap, or do you have the type of box with the extra fold of metal and spot-welded corners?
4) Is the front panel also steel, or is is possibly aluminum? The sharp bend corners of the panel suggest that the metal is thinner than I guessed or perhaps softer.
5) Approximate heights (measured from the bottom board) for the centers of the chassis inductor and transistor socket holes, and maybe the antenna jacks. I can't easily estimate these.
6) Knob center locations on the front panel.
Realistically I will probably have to make some guesstimates on part locations by scaling in Photoshop, and I'm okay with that. I know it's difficult to get in there to measure everything, and that would be asking a lot. It would be a huge help just to know the things I have asked above, and I would be indebted to you for that. I'll document progress here as I go along.
I'll PM you my direct email in case you need it for anything. And again, thank you for your offer to help.
Roger
