TOKO Inductors Needed for EM Theremin!

In that case, I'll just stick to 12 VAC instead of 14 or 15 VAC.

Isn't breadboarding a method that invovles no soldering and a completely different type of circuit board? I know that I'd need to solder the connection between the components and their respective clips, but do you solder the buss-wires between clips? How would this be done without clips (just wondering, I'll use the clips.)? Would the buss-wires be connected from component to component without the use of connectors?

In the previous thread, we discussed what pots to use. You said you used much cheaper ones with a 1/8 watt power rating. Your power source was +/- 5V, and mine is +/- 12V. Will I need the 2 watt pots listed, or could I use the same ones that you used?

[i]In that case, I'll just stick to 12 VAC instead of 14 or 15 VAC. [/i]

Transformers have a wide tolerance (+-10% sometimes +-20%). You need to verify that you sufficient input voltage to get the specified output voltage.

[i] Isn't breadboarding a method that invovles no soldering and a completely different type of circuit board? I know that I'd need to solder the connection between the components and their respective clips, but do you solder the buss-wires between clips? How would this
be done without clips (just wondering, I'll use the clips.)? Would the buss-wires be connected from component to component without the use of
connectors?
[/i]

The term breadboarding can be applied to either the solderless breadboards or the vectorboard. I do not like the solderless breadboards because the connections get unreliable. Since the aolderless breadboards are expensive you have to dismantle one circuit before you build another. Sometimes it is useful to have your old circuits around.

I solder the component leads to the clips and solder the buss-wire to the clips. You can solder component lead to component lead but it can get messy. Repairs and changes can be difficult.

[i] In the previous thread, we discussed what pots to use. You said you used much cheaper ones with a 1/8 watt power rating. Your power source
was +/- 5V, and mine is +/- 12V. Will I need the 2 watt pots listed, or could I use the same ones that you used?[/i]

Another homework problem ;-)

Ohms Law V = I * R

Current through the pot I = V / R

Power dissipated by the pot P = V * I = ????

(* jcl *)

P.S. Here are some notes I posted on another
list ---

* Use Vector K24A pins for external wires. Make sure you get the 169P84WE board and not the paper core. The K24A pins press in hard and you could break the paper core board.

* Use #28 wire for the small holes in the T42-1 (aka flea-clips), #22 wire for the large hole and the slot. The #28 can be cut with an Xacto knife. If you pull your wires straight you can run perpendicular wires, without insulation, using the flea-clip slots and large holes.

* layout your circuit on graph paper *prior* to breadboarding

* Get the P149 tool for inserting the flea-clips

It's not necessary to solder buss wire to the lead and then to the clip?

"* Use #28 wire for the small holes in the T42-1 (aka flea-clips), #22 wire for the large hole and the slot. The #28 can be cut with an Xacto knife. If you pull your wires straight you can run perpendicular wires, without insulation, using the flea-clip slots and large holes."

What do you mean by this?

[i]It's not necessary to solder buss wire to the lead and then to the clip?[/i]

For resistors, capacitors, inductors (except the TOKO) solder the lead to the clip. For the
TOKO inductors and the IC socket solder one end
of the buss wire to the lead and the other end
to the clip.

(* jcl *)

[i]"* Use #28 wire for the small holes in the T42-1 (aka flea-clips), #22 wire for the large hole and the slot. The #28 can be cut with an Xacto knife. If you pull your wires straight you can run perpendicular wires, without insulation, using the flea-clip slots and large holes."

What do you mean by this? [/i]

Take a look at the picture of the T42-1 clip. There are two holes. The large hole will fit a #22 wire the small hole fits a #28 or #30 wire. The large hole is perpendicular to the slot and at a different height.

(* jcl *)

I've placed my "breadboard hints" and a picture of an example breadboard at
Assembly Hints (http://www.luciani.org/getting-it-done/assembly-hints/assembly-hints-index.html)

(* jcl *)

Thanks for the link- the pictures really help.

One note: I've found the LM13600 at Newark. However, Newark says it's made by MCM. I went to MCM's website and it said it was the "dual operational transcondance amp" Before the discription, it said "NATIONAL". The part listed in the plans is made by National Semiconductor. I think that the part I found is correct, even thought it says MCM (and MCM says it's from "NATIONAL", so maybe National is the actual maker...???

Can the buss wire be bought at RadioShack, or do I need to order that from the internet? What gauges should I use?

The plans also mention a "connector set with at least ten conductors for connections between the main circuit board and front panel" -What exactly are these, and are they a RadioShack part or an internet part? Or are those Vector connectors/ pins what I need here?

As far as the homework problem goes, here's what I got (the resistance changes in pots, so does that change the calculations?)
*Current through the pot for 5k ohm pot I = V / R = 12V/5000 ohms
*Power dissipated by the pot P = V * I = (12/5000)*12V = .0288 watts

For the 50k ohm pot, the decimal of the answer is just moved one place to the left (.00288 watts)
**Do these answers seem correct?
If they are, I'll just go with 1/8W or 1/2W pots!

For the power supply, I couldn't find out the tolerance of my regulators, but the plans say 12VAC- 15VAC will work, so I'll just go with 12VAC Xicon 412-212053 from Mouser.

I mentioned earlier that some of my resistors are "dual 1/8 - 1/4 wattage" will these work for the 1/4W resistors that I need?

[i]
One note: I've found the LM13600 at Newark. However, Newark says it's made by MCM. I went to MCM's website and it said it was the "dual operational transcondance amp" Before the discription, it said "NATIONAL". The part listed in the plans is made by National Semiconductor. I think that the part I found is correct, even thought it says MCM (and MCM says it's from "NATIONAL", so maybe National is the actual maker...??? [/i]

I am not sure who MCM is. I believe that National has replaced the LM13600 with the LM13700. You may want to see if they are pin compatable and check the specifications.

[i]
Can the buss wire be bought at RadioShack, or do I need to order that from the internet? [/i]

I am not sure. RadioShack has been reducing the amount of electronic components that they carry so they may not have the gauges that you want. I would add to one of your internet orders.

[i]What gauges should I use? [/i]

This is on my webpage!!! ;-) The AWG or the pound sign stands for gauge. I would buy 22AWG and 28AWG. 24AWG is useful but you could probably get by without it. Don't forget to order insulated hookup wire. I would get 24AWG in a few different colors. I recommend teflon insulation since it does not melt back.

[i]
The plans also mention a "connector set with at least ten conductors for connections between the main circuit board and front panel" -What exactly are these, and are they a RadioShack part or an internet part? Or are those Vector connectors/ pins what I need here? [/i]

If you want the panel and the circuit board to easily disconnect you need a connector set. You could probably just use the K24A pins to wire your front panel components. If the top of your case removes it will not be difficult to work on.


[i]
As far as the homework problem goes, here's what I got (the resistance changes in pots, so does that change the calculations?)[/i]

The resistance only changes between the wiper and the ends. In this circuit the power dissipation across the pot is constant.

[i]
*Current through the pot for 5k ohm pot I = V / R = 12V/5000 ohms
*Power dissipated by the pot P = V * I = (12/5000)*12V = .0288 watts
[/i]
This looks correct to me.


[i]
For the 50k ohm pot, the decimal of the answer is just moved one place to the left (.00288 watts)
**Do these answers seem correct?
If they are, I'll just go with 1/8W or 1/2W pots!
[/i]
This looks correct to me.

[i]
I mentioned earlier that some of my resistors are "dual 1/8 - 1/4 wattage" will these work for the 1/4W resistors that I need? [/i]

I am not sure what "dual 1/8 - 1/4 wattage" eans.

(* jcl *)

Does it matter which guage wire I use for different components?

You told me the type of potentiometers you used for your theremin, and I think I'll go with them. However, the tolerance on those is 20%, and the ones in the plans is 10% (the tolerance is not specified in the plans, but that's what it is on the Clarostat pots in the plans). Should the 20% work / did they work for you?

I'm not quite sure what type of IC DIP socket I should get. The pitch of the LM13600 leads are 1.27 mm, but I'm not sure about any other of the specs. Do you know the serial number of the socket that you used for your LM13600? I think the 1-390261-4 may work ("with .300 center line ladder side"). Another with .600 center line is available, but I'm not sure which fits my IC- I don't even know if the pitch fits it.

What about that power supply? :)

When you built your theremin, what did you use for the antennas/ rods?

Where can the knobs for the pots be purchased?

Thanks,
Dan